DRIVING THE UNDERRATED RING OF BEARA, IRELAND
Absolutely up there with the most underrated places to visit in Ireland, The Beara Penisula on Ireland’s Southwest coast is a hidden gem you have to know more about. The Ring of Beara drive was one of the best things we did on our recent trip to Ireland’s Southwest, and it so often gets missed on travel itineraries as it gets completely overshadowed by the well-trodden Ring of Kerry. Whilst The Ring of Kerry is certainly incredible, the wild isolation found on The Beara Penisula is unmatched and gives a true taste of wild Ireland. We spent a day driving along the route and highly recommend doing the same on a road trip around this area. Lush natural beauty and wild landscapes await those who take the time to embark on this trip. The remoteness of this area is absolutely a blessing as we felt like we were the only ones here, seemingly on the edge of the world. We had the shingle beaches to ourselves, seal-spotting as we went, barely passed a car along the impressive Healy Pass mountain road, and explored the colourful towns and villages without any crowds. The Beara Penisula hits different, it feels more ancient and wildly isolated than anywhere else we visited on Ireland’s Southwest coast. We’ve mentioned our top spots on this route below to encourage you to visit this rugged alternative route.
TIPS FOR VISITING THE RING OF BEARA
Be prepared for wild weather. In these remote lands the weather is extremely interchangeable. We saw sunshine, rain and strong winds during our visit. Pack appropriately and be prepared for the weather to change without warning
The roads here are like much of rural Ireland, narrow and winding, with some roads directly at the edge of the cliffs. so take care as you go and make sure you’re a confident driver. The Healy Pass is particularly winding with hairpin turns so you’d be wise to be prepared
This route really does appear to be off the tourist radar, so plan in advance if you are planning to stay in this area. There’s not many hotels in on the Beara Penisula and they are very likely to be closed out of the summer season
You can definitely do this route in a day like we did, as it’s much smaller than other drives in Ireland’s Southwest but it really is worthy of staying a while longer and since leaving I keep researching so many places we missed!
The peninsula is home to the Beara Way, a long-distance walking trail that spans the penisula that serves as one of the best ways to connect with this wild and isolated land. If you ever have the time it would be the ultimate adventure
Castletownbere
After an early morning drive along the route, we stopped off at Castletownbere, the capital of the Beara Penisula for breakfast. This busy fishing harbour draws in tourists and fishermen alike and is the perfect base for heading off on the hiking trails or for catching the ferry over to the Bere Islands. We recommend grabbing food at Sugrues On The Square if you’re visiting in the morning for the perfect Irish breakfast, or treat yourself to a hot chocolate from Catcha Coffee whilst you walk along the harbour taking in the sight of the massive fishing boats. This is a working town and is the largest white fish port in Ireland, walking along the harbour watching the work going on alone is fascinating. If you’re here in the evening, MacCarthy’s bar is highly recommended for its seafood and good craic.
Ballydonegan Beach
Fine sand and clear waters are more often than not associated with tropical destinations, but paradise exists also on this wild stretch of coastline. You can’t help but stop here on your journey around the ring of Beara. Jump out of the car for a ramble along the beach and take in the breathtaking views of the surrounding area. If you’re lucky, you may even spot seals. Evidence of the Beara Penisula’s copper mining past can be found throughout the area but is particularly evident here at Ballydonegan beach, where the beach is formed from crushed quartz washed down from the mines.
Allihies
Once infamous for its copper mining industry, Allihies history is as colourful as the houses that surround the area. From here you can hike the Copper Mine Trail, which weaves across the wild headland, past the old mines and man-made reservoirs or simply stop off at one of the pubs in the village for a local beer. The Allihies Copper Mine Museum at the foot of the village pays homage to the copper mining industry and is worth a visit if you’re interested in learning more about the industry that changed the land.
Eyeries
Overlooking Coulagh and Kenmare Bay, the colourful village of Eyeries is a scenic stop-off. Jump out of the car to simply gawp and the beautiful houses or lace up your hiking boots and jump on a trail from here. Whether you stay for a while or are simply passing through, it’s instantly obvious as to why this tiny village hugging the Atlantic is a magnet for artists who visit often. Amongst the brightly painted houses you’ll find a couple of pubs that are perfect for a lunch stop.
Dooneen Scenic Viewpoint
On the road between Allihies and Eyeries there is a wonderful pull-up where you can appreciate the view of the surrounding cliffs of the penisula. The viewpoint is marked as as a Wild Atlantic Way discovery point so is easy to find. We stayed a little while here scrambling over the cliffs and just appreciating the views. There is nowhere like The Beara Penisula, it feels more wild than anywhere else on the southwest coast and it’s ever more apparent stood on the edge of the cliffs watching the crashing waves below.
Kenmare Bay - Kenmare Bay is such great stop along the route. There’s heaps of things to do around the bay. You can wildlife watch, try your hand at fishing or even jump on a seal-spotting tour and get up close and personal with the adorable bay residents. It’s also the perfect spot for swimming or kayaking if the weather is on your side. If you’re strapped for time, the views across Kenmare Bay alone as you drive around the ring of beara is enough for you to appreciate how beautiful the area is.
OTHER PLACES TO EXPLORE ON THE BEARA PENISULA
Bere Island - From Castletownbere you can take a 15-minute ferry over to Bere Island, where you’ll find ancient stone circles and burial mounds to explore
Dursey Island - You can take a cable car from the mainland to Dursey Island at the end of the peninsula. The 10-minute ride across the rough sea can be hair-raising but it’s worth it for the impressive loop walk around island
Dunboy Castle - Just outside Castletownbere, you’ll find the ruins of this 16th-century stronghold which is an interesting visit
Glengarriff Nature Reserve- The forests and shady trails of Glengarriff Nature Reserve are lovely to explore and the Blue Pool is the perfect swimming spot in the summer months
Garnish Island - You can find reach the island via a short ferry ride from Glengarriff. The gardens on the island are so dreamy and absolutely worth exploring
Healy Pass- Sandwiched between two of the highest mountains in the Caha range, this narrow pass with hairpin bends and sheer drops to the sea below is enough to make any experienced driver nervous. However, take it on and you’ll be rewarded with views over Glanmore Lake and the surrounding rocky landscape
