THE FAMOUS RING OF KERRY DRIVE, IRELAND
During a road trip through Southwest Ireland recently, we tackled The Ring of Kerry route. This circular drive around the Iveragh penisula is popular for good reason. This drive takes you through ancient mountains and lakes, past dreamy beaches and through patchwork fields of emerald green, making this one of the most magical places to visit on the South West coast. There’s also countless tiny towns dotted along the route perfect for a stop-off for lunch, where you’ll find cosy pubs, fires lit and waiting for you. You can do the route in a day, but we recommend taking your time and breaking the route up over a couple of days to make the most of the area. Below you will find our best places we visited during our time along the route!
TIPS FOR DRIVING THE RING OF KERRY
Be prepared for wild weather. In these remote lands the weather is extremely interchangeable. We saw sunshine, rain and strong winds during our 2-day visit. Pack appropriately and be prepared for the weather to change without warning
The roads here are like much of rural Ireland, narrow and winding, with some roads directly at the edge of the cliffs. so take care as you go and make sure you’re a confident driver
The drive is 120 miles long. So although you certainly could pack this into one day, you really should aim to take your time. There’s so many beaches to explore, mountains to climb and pubs to fall into that it’d be a real shame for you to rush. We spent two days and found that even that wasn’t enough time to fit in everything we had wanted to see
This route can be super busy during the summer months. If you can’t go out of season like we did, we recommend at least travelling clockwise around the ring, just so you miss all the tour buses going the other way
BEST PLACES TO STOP ALONG THE RING OF KERRY
Kenmare
Though technically the route begins and ends in Killarney, we actually started our Ring of Kerry adventure in the beautiful town of Kenmare. Kenmare’s streets, adorned with pretty flags, are lined with antique shops, restaurants and cafe’s. Stop here for breakfast before heading off on the drive or grab yourself a souvenir from one of many gift shops dotted along the main street. As you head out of Kenmare onto the ring, you’ll be treated to the most gorgeous views across Kenmare Bay. If you have more time in this area, you should totally stay a while around the bay, where you can wildlife watch, try your hand at fishing or even jump on a seal-spotting tour and get up close and personal with the adorable residents. You’ll also find Kenmare’s Stone Circle close by, where you can get a glimpse of the fascinating circle that’s said to date back to the Bronze Age.
Derrynane Beach
Derrynane Beach can be reached by driving down some narrow green country lanes towards the car park. The drive can be tight if passing lots of cars but you will soon be rewarded with one of the most gorgeous beaches in all of Ireland. Sheltered by tall sand dunes, with views across to Abbey Island, the beach is perfect for a stroll or even a dip. We opted for a paddle along the shore but we saw a good few swimmers out there braving the cold waters of late September. If you choose to swim, note there’s certain areas marked off due to dangerous currents, so be careful. At low-tide, you can head across to Abbey Island to explore the ruined remains of Derrynane Abbey. Also worth a visit in the area is Derrynane House, the ancestral home of politician Daniel O’Connell. Known as ‘The Liberator’, Daniel was a lawyer, politician and statesman. Today the house serves as a museum dedicated to the politician and is worth a visit if you want to learn more about Ireland’s history.
Skellig Ring Detour
If you have more time like we did, you should add on the Skellig Ring drive to your tour and head towards Ballinskelligs beach. Mythical tales of heroes and and warriors who have graced this region have been told throughout time and as you drive along this route you’ll find ethereal scenery to match the mysterious stories. The beach is incredible, where you’ll find a dreamy castle seemingly plopped right on the beach and the views of the surrounding mountains. St Finian’s Bay and Reenroe beach are both excellent beach alternatives in the area. Take the road towards Portmagee for the most incredible views over to the Skellig Islands. If you have time and weather allows, you can get a boat from Portmagee to Skellig Michael where you can explore the UNESCO-rated ruined monastery. The Kerry Cliffs are also close-by, which give the Cliffs of Moher a run for their money. Note that access closes about 4pm so make sure you have plenty of time if you wish to visit them.
Cahersiveen and Ballycarbery Castle
We stopped for the night nearby Cahersiveen which is a fabulous stop-off especially for an evening of pub-hopping. Ireland’s cosy pub culture is one of the reasons we love returning time and time again to Ireland. Log fires, traditional music and a pint of the good stuff await you in the welcoming pubs here. Mike Murt’s is a popular favourite with both locals and tourists alike, with its open fire and traditional flair. You’ll be sure to have a good night here tucked in to a cosy corner. The pub’s here all serve traditional food with a focus on local ingredients. The next morning we stopped by the impressive Ballycarberry Castle. Once belonging to the McCarthy Clan, this 15th-century castle now lies in ruins but is still one of the most spectacular castles in all of Ireland. We stopped here to make some breakfast in the van as the sun was shining and enjoyed the views of the castle all to ourselves. You can head further down to Whitestand Beach stopping at Cahergal and Leacanabuaile Forts as you go to further appreciate this special area steeped in history.
Rossbeigh Beach
Rossbeigh beach is hands down my favourite beach on the Ring of Kerry. The drive down towards the water alone is enough to make you swoon but you really must stop to get out and appreciate the beach and the views of Dingle’s ancient mountains. You can walk for miles along the strand or go for a swim in the beautiful waters here. Rossbeigh is also highly regarded for its surf-perfect waves so grab a board and jump in if you’re feeling adventurous. Horse-trekking is also super popular here and you can follow in the footsteps of the legends Oisin and Niamh, who were said to have rode a white horse into the sea at Rossbeigh in search of the Land of Eternal Youth! Whatever you get up to here, you’ll want to stay a while to appreciate this majestic land.
Liesleibane Loop Hike & Carrauntoohil Coffee Hut
Lacing up our hiking boots, we opted for a walking trail that would get us more acquainted with the ancient mountains that exist in County Kerry. I had wanted to tackle Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s tallest peak but after a rough research was quickly humbled by warnings such as ‘strenuous’ ‘expert-level’ and ‘danger of death’ as well as learning that in order to reach the peak we’d have to tackle the terrifyingly-named ‘Devil’s Ladder’. I think not. Instead, we chose a route that was much more our style - an easier, shorter hike still within the glorious mountains followed by a decadent hot chocolate at Carrauntoohil Coffee Hut. The coffee hut alone is reason enough to travel up this way and you can simply enjoy the views from the car park if you’re not into hiking.
OTHER PLACES TO STOP ON THE RING OF KERRY
Muckross House & Muckross Abbey - The glorious house and estate is open to the public and is the perfect place for an explore if you have the time
The Lakes of Killarney - Lough Leane , Muckross Lake and Upper Lake are all worth a visit and have lots of points of interest surrounding them. You’ll be guaranteed stunning scenery whichever you pick to visit
Torc Waterfall - This is a super popular spot along the Ring of Kerry. Reached via a short forest walk, this magical place is steeped in myth and legend
Ladies View - This viewpoint is another popular favourite for road trippers, taking in views of the Lakes of Killarney and the surrounding mountains
Molls Gap - The infamous mountain pass takes in the incredible rugged beauty of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range and surrounding lakes and hills
Kerry Cliffs - The cliffs tower over 1,000 feet above the crashing waters of the Atlantic and a the walk to the cliffs takes in views of Puffin Island and Skellig Michael
Gap of Dunloe - Situated between two mountain ranges, this is a stunning place to explore in Kerry. To make the experience all the more memorable rent a jaunting car (a horse & cart) to explore the area
