Last September we set out on a two-week road trip around Croatia. We adored every place we visited, but our favourite region by far was Istria. Within our favourite region was our favourite city, Rovinj! We based ourselves here in an adorable Airbnb as we explored Istria and we could not have made a better decision. The picturesque fishing port is made up of pretty pastel-coloured townhouses, overlooked by the St Euphemia church perched at the top of the hill, surrounded by the emerald green Adriatic sea. Once ruled by the Venetians, Rovinj unsurprisingly mimics Venice, with numerous squares and gorgeous cobbled streets, but the highlight is most definitely the harbour, where the boats sway in the breeze. We adored Rovinj and here are some reasons why we think you will too (and many, many photos to prove it).
THE DREAMY HARBOUR
The charming harbour in Rovinj was our favourite spot. We would idle the time away, watching fishing and tour boats alike bob up and down in the glittering water. We sat on the edge many times (more often than not to enjoy goods from the bakery) listening to the water lapping against the boats, accompanied by the hum of cafe’s and restaurants nearby. In the evenings we would return to the harbour to listen to live music, exclaiming how lucky we were to visit during the annual wine festival. The night of the full moon was a particular favourite, lighting up the water below.
THE PICTURESQUE OLD TOWN
The lanes and alleyways that wind their way around and up to the church of St Euphemia are endlessly charming. We strolled the perfectly polished cobble stoned streets, stopping for coffee and Aperol Spritz as we went. Tiny alleyways enjoyed by sunbathing cats, decorated with hanging washing blowing in the breeze lead out to buzzing squares, the clink of espresso cups on saucers the perfect soundtrack to the dreamy scene. We spent hours just wandering the sun-dappled old town and fell head over heels.
THE ENDLESS SWIMMING SPOTS
There are plenty of spots around Rovinj’s old town to walk down to the sea and take a dip. Bright towels decorate the rocks as people set up for a day of sunbathing, moving only to fetch gelato from the shops above. The sea can even be reached from many of the bars that are dotted along the sea front. Our favourite place to swim was in Zlatni Rt park, a short walk away from the busier centre, with its many coves and small rocky beaches.
THE CHURCH OF ST EUPHEMIA
Perched at the top of the hill overlooking Rovinj is St Euphemia Church. Sat even higher still is its next door neighbour, the bell tower modelled to replicate that of the campanile of St Mark’s in Venice. The outside is impressive but so too is the inside. The statues, artwork and ceiling frescoes are intricately detailed and beautiful to see especially when the sun bursts through the church.
GRISIA STREET
Grisia is the most popular street in Rovinj’s old town and for good reason. The winding cobbled street leading up to St Euphemia church is filled with restaurants, souvenir shops and art galleries. Art work is displayed on the walls outside and the smell of truffle wafts out of gift shop windows. We visited each shop, tasting olive oils in some and gawping at beautiful handmade jewellery in others, slowly searching for the perfect postcard to take home.
THE BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS
The crumbling pastel facades of the buildings in the old town, brightened by shutters the colour of the Adriatic sea are beautiful. Once ruled by the Venetians, Rovinj’s architecture is exceptionally similar to that of Venice and the whole city truly does feel Italian. The quintessential townhouses stand tall facing out over the water, shades of sunset-orange , sherbet-pink, and lemon, paint peeling at the edges to add to their charm. Many say that the best way to arrive into Rovinj is by boat, where the beautiful buildings are there first to greet you.
ZLATNI RT FOREST PARK
Also known as Golden Cape, this park lies just south of the old town. Filled with cypress and pine trees, the forest offers sunny walks through woodland paths leading down into many secluded beaches. We enjoyed a long walk (beers included, obviously) before stumbling across the perfect private cove to go for a swim as the sun set. We saw many people renting out bicycles along the forest park and if we ever get to return we will definitely be jumping on one and exploring the park further.
DELICIOUS FOOD AND DRINK
The food in Istria is very much influenced by nearby Venice and pasta, award-winning olive oil and the regions famous truffles take the spotlight. Pair Istria’s fuži pasta with truffle and you are on to a winner. We spent our evenings in Rovinj choosing truffle dishes off the restaurant menu’s and though I’ve tried, I cannot recreate anything half as good! Rovinj also has a number of amazing bars to stop for a cocktail or five. Many are perched on the seafront and add a dreamy setting to kick back and relax. Our favourite was Mediterraneo Bar, a quirky outdoor space with colourful tables and cushions, overlooking the sea. We loved breakfast at Circolo right by our apartment. Our top dinner spots were La Vela, a lovely Italian pizzeria recommended by our Airbnb host and Tipico situated on Grisia St serving Istrian specials.
WHERE TO STAY
We stayed in this lovely apartment nestled in between locals houses. The garden terrace was the best thing about it. We loved having breakfast there and relaxing on the sun loungers. The host who met us was lovely and walked us around the town to show us the best restaurants and the harbour. She even left local wine and beer as part of the welcome. We shared a gated entrance with locals who liked to shout out the windows to each other and who left their doors and windows open the entire day. Talk about getting to know the neighbours! We adored our stay there.
Mention Croatia to others and they will likely think of Split or Dubrovnik. When we think of Croatia, it is always Istria we remember. If you are thinking of a trip to Croatia (when it is safe to travel, obviously!) but want a less obvious choice, Rovinj is paradise.