SOUTH WEST IRELAND ROAD TRIP
Last September we wanted to take a trip to celebrate our van back on the road after fitting him with a new engine. After much deliberation sat on the driveway with a van packed full ready for a week of camping, we headed south towards Pebrokeshire to get the ferry over to Rosslare in Ireland. We have been to Ireland countless times, myself even more so on account of visiting family often. So when we were figuring out which part of Ireland to go to, we basically chose the last corner of the country we’d not yet explored. We set our sight on the South West towards County Cork and County Kerry for a week-long road trip. Here are our top spots we would recommend should you be thinking of doing the same.
ROAD TRIP STOP ONE - COBH, COUNTY CORK
After a night parked up at a deserted campsite, we spent our first day driving along the country lanes of the Irish countryside towards Cobh. Spending a good few hours at Cobh during a road trip along the south-west coast is an absolute must. The harbour-side town, dotted with colourful houses and watched over by an impressively gothic cathedral is a glittering gem along the coastline. Not only is Cobh gorgeous, but it’s steeped in history. Cobh was the last point of call for the ill-fated Titanic as well as the iconic departure point for millions of Irish immigrants who left the emerald isle to head to the New World. Head into one of the many buzzy pubs for a pint of Murphy’s and you’ll discover walls plastered with memorabilia from Cobh’s maritime history. If time and sea conditions are on your side, head over to Spike Island for a tour of the place that has served as both a military fortress and a prison over the years. Expert storytellers and interactive exhibitions await to tell the stories of the captains and convicts that used to reside on the notorious island. Back on the mainland, you can walk up Spy Hill to spot the iconic Deck of Cards, the colourful houses that line the streets before heading into St Colman’s cathedral. The Titanic Experience is also a popular thing to do in Cobh, where you’ll discover the stories of the 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic at Cobh. Do not skip on Cobh, it was one our favourite spots.
ROAD TRIP STOP TWO - CORK CITY, COUNTY CORK
Now, we don’t often visit cities when we are road tripping. We tend to prefer sticking to the countryside and hopping through little villages and towns instead. However I have always wanted to check out Cork city and I am so glad we did. On the banks of River Lee, this walkable, historical city feels incredibly warm and welcoming. Think bustling bars that range from the traditional to the modern, an endless option of delicious restaurants and a buzz on the streets that is absolutely contagious. On a whistle-stop tour of the city visit you’d be wise to prioritise heading to the English Market, where the best of Cork’s infamous foodie scene congregates to create a gastronomic hub. Taste your way through the different stalls sampling the best local produce or sit for lunch at Farmgate Cafe where their entire menu is sourced from the market. There’s heaps of bars to choose from in Cork city but you should take the local’s advice and ditch the guinness for a Murphy’s, the local stout, which any Corkonian will insist is far superior. The locals are incredibly proud of their city and the warm welcome you’ll undoubtedly feel during your visit is testament to this.
ROAD TRIP STOP THREE - KINSALE, COUNTY CORK
Enchanted is the word that springs to mind when i conjure up memories of Kinsale. This colourful little harbour village is the most adorable stop on a road trip around the South-West of Ireland and is an instagrammable dream thanks to its collection of brightly coloured buildings. Once a sleepy fishing village, Kinsale is growing in popularity thanks to its recent transformation into a foodie hotspot. The tiny village is crammed full of gourmet bistros, trendy cafe’s and even a Michelin-starred restaurant as well as tiny boutiques and charming shops that makes Kinsale the perfect stop-off. After mooching around the narrow streets and tucking into lunch at your eatery of choice, take a walk up to Charles Fort, a 17th-century fortress that watches over Kinsale to learn more about the history of village.
ROAD TRIP STOP FOUR- THE BEARA PENISULA, COUNTY CORK
Possibly the most underrated destination in the South-West, the Beara Penisula gives a true taste of wild Ireland. The ring of Beara driving route takes you along the Atlantic Ocean and is completely unexplored compared to the much busier and well-known ring of Kerry route. We spent the entire day driving along the route and highly recommend doing the same on a road trip around this area. Lush natural beauty and wild landscapes await those who take the time to embark on this trip and we felt like we were the only ones around for miles, especially as we wandered along the empty beaches seal-spotting. We’ve mentioned our top spots on this route below.
Castletown-Bearhaven
After an early morning drive along the route, we stopped off at Castletown-Bearhaven, the capital of the Beara Penisula for breakfast. This busy fishing harbour draws in tourists and fishermen alike and is the perfect base for heading off on the hiking trails or for catching the ferry over to the Bere Islands. We recommend grabbing food at Sugrues On The Square if you’re visiting in the morning for the perfect Irish breakfast, or treat yourself to a hot chocolate from Catcha Coffee whilst you walk along the harbour taking in the sight of the massive fishing boats. MacCarthy’s bar is also highly recommended for its seafood and good craic.
Allihies Beach
Fine white sand and turquoise waters are more often than not associated with tropical destinations, but paradise exists also on this wild stretch of coastline. You can’t help but stop here on your journey around the ring of Beara. Jump out of the car for a ramble along the beach and take in the breathtaking views of the surrounding area. If you’re lucky, you may even spot seals.
Allihies
Once infamous for its copper mining industry, Allihies history is as colourful as the houses that surround the area. From here you can hike the Copper Mine Trail, which weaves across the wild headland, past the old mines and man-made reservoirs or simply stop off at one of the pubs in the village for another local beer.
Eyeries
Overlooking Coulagh and Kenmare Bay, the colourful village of Eyeries is a scenic stop-off. Jump out of the car to simply gawp and the beautiful houses or lace up your hiking boots and jump on a trail from here. Whether you stay for a while or are simply passing through, it’s instantly obvious as to why this tiny village hugging the Atlantic is a magnet for artists who visit often.
ROAD TRIP STOP FIVE- THE RING OF KERRY, COUNTY KERRY
The Ring of Kerry route is popular for good reason. This drive takes you through ancient mountains and lakes, past dreamy beaches and through patchwork fields of emerald green, making this one of the most magical places to visit on the South West coast. There’s also countless tiny towns dotted along the route perfect for a stop-off for lunch, where you’ll find cosy pubs, fires lit and waiting for you. You can do the route in a day, but we recommend taking your time and breaking the route up over a couple of days to make the most of the area. Below you will find our best stop-offs on the route.
Kenmare
We started our Ring of Kerry adventure in the beautiful town of Kenmare after finishing up in the Beara Penisula. Kenmare’s streets, adorned with pretty flags, are lined with antique shops, restaurants and cafe’s. Stop here for breakfast before heading off on the drive or grab yourself a souvenir from one of many gift shops dotted along the main street. As you head out of Kenmare onto the ring, you’ll be treated to the most gorgeous views across Kenmare Bay.
Derrynane Beach
Derrynane Beach can be reached by driving down some narrow green country lanes towards the car park. The drive can be tight if passing lots of cars but you will soon be rewarded with one of the most gorgeous beaches in all of Ireland. Sheltered by tall sand dunes, with views across to Abbey Island, the beach is perfect for a stroll or even a dip. We opted for a paddle along the shore but we saw a good few swimmers out there braving the cold waters of late September. If you choose to swim, note there’s certain areas marked off due to dangerous currents, so be careful.
Skellig Ring
If you have more time like we did, you should add on the Skellig Ring drive to your tour and head towards Ballinskelligs beach. Mythical tales of heroes and and warriors who have graced this region have been told throughout time and as you drive along this route you’ll find ethereal scenery to match the mysterious stories. The beach is incredible, where you’ll find a dreamy castle seemingly plopped right on the beach and the views of the surrounding mountains. St Finian’s Bay and Reenroe beach are both excellent beach alternatives in the area. Take the road towards Portmagee for the most incredible views over to the Skellig Islands. If you have time and weather allows, you can get a boat from Portmagee to Skellig Michael where you can explore the UNESCO-rated ruined monastery. The Kerry Cliffs are also close-by, which give the Cliffs of Moher a run for their money. Note that access closes about 4pm so make sure you have plenty of time if you wish to visit them.
Cahersiveen and Ballycarbery Castle
We stopped for the night nearby Cahersiveen which is a fabulous stop-off especially for an evening of pub-hopping. Ireland’s cosy pub culture is one of the reasons we love returning time and time again to Ireland. Log fires, traditional music and a pint of the good stuff await you in the welcoming pubs here. Mike Murt’s is a popular favourite with both locals and tourists alike, with its open fire and traditional flair. You’ll be sure to have a good night here tucked in to a cosy corner. The pub’s here all serve traditional food with a focus on local ingredients but we must admit we dipped into the local chinese takeaway to grab Ireland’s infamous spice bag (if you know you know!) and drove to a nearby beach to enjoy. The next morning we stopped by the impressive Ballycarberry Castle. Once belonging to the McCarthy Clan, this 15th-century castle now lies in ruins but is still one of the most spectacular castles in all of Ireland. We stopped here to make some breakfast in the van as the sun was shining and enjoyed the views of the castle all to ourselves. You can head further down to Whitestand Beach stopping at Cahergal and Leacanabuaile Forts as you go to further appreciate this special area steeped in history.
Rossbeigh Beach
Rossbeigh beach is hands down my favourite beach on the Ring of Kerry. The drive down towards the water alone is enough to make you swoon but you really must stop to get out and appreciate the beach and the views of Dingle’s ancient mountains. You can walk for miles along the strand or go for a swim in the beautiful waters here. Rossbeigh is also highly regarded for its surf-perfect waves so grab a board and jump in if you’re feeling adventurous. Horse-trekking is also super popular here and you can follow in the footsteps of the legends Oisin and Niamh, who were said to have rode a white horse into the sea at Rossbeigh in search of the Land of Eternal Youth! Whatever you get up to here, you’ll want to stay a while to appreciate this majestic land.
Liesleibane Loop Hike & Carrauntoohil Coffee Hut
Lacing up our hiking boots, we opted for a walking trail that would get us more acquainted with the ancient mountains that exist in County Kerry. I had wanted to tackle Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s tallest peak but after a rough research was quickly humbled by warnings such as ‘strenuous’ ‘expert-level’ and ‘danger of death’ as well as learning that in order to reach the peak we’d have to tackle the terrifyingly-named ‘Devil’s Ladder’. I think not. Instead, we chose a route that was much more our style - an easier, shorter hike still within the glorious mountains followed by a decadent hot chocolate at Carrauntoohil Coffee Hut. The coffee hut alone is reason enough to travel up this way and you can simply enjoy the views from the car park if you’re not into hiking.
ROAD TRIP STOP SIX- DINGLE PENISULA, COUNTY KERRY
I’m just going to say it, The Dingle Penisula is absolutely my favourite area we visited on the whole trip. Cruising around the 30-mile Dingle Penisula loop and dancing in the courtyard at Dick Mack’s bar until the early hours are the memories that have stayed with me most from our road trip. We drove the entire Dingle Penisula loop and took in the sights of the deep-green rugged country lanes and views over the wild Atlantic ocean. Jagged rock faces give way to hidden coves and and empty beaches on this isolated stretch of land. The Slea Head Drive within this loop is particularly stunning. If you choose one place to stop on this route, make it Dunquin Pier, an iconic landmark that was once the primary connection to the mainland for those who inhabited the isolated and forboding Blasket Islands. If the weather is on your side, follow in their historical footsteps and take the boat over to the Blasket Islands to explore the abandoned settlements and hike the islands’ many walking routes on Ireland’s most westerly land. Of course Dingle town should not be missed. The colourful town comes alive in the evening with live music in all of the pubs. Dick Macks is somewhat an institution and we had the best time drinking Guinness and dancing in the courtyard there on one of the busiest weekends of the year - The Dingle Food Festival. Don’t forget to spend some time mooching around the town, where you will find excellent foodie spots, unique boutiques and gift shops selling everything from cheesy Irish souvenirs to gorgeous antique Claddagh rings.
IRELAND’S SOUTH WEST - AN OVERVIEW
Here we have given you a rough idea of how you can spend a week cruising around Ireland’s dreamy South West coast. This area is absolutely beautiful and gave us a true taste of the wild landscapes on the Emerald Isle. These were just a few of our favourite stops along the road trip, there is infinitely more to do and see than you would possibly have time for in a week. There is magic to be found in this corner of the world. The scenery is unmatched as is the friendly welcome that can be found in those cosy pubs and traditional restaurants. You can’t go wrong no matter which route you take.
