Last September we set out on a two-week road trip around Croatia. We adored every place we visited, but our favourite region by far was Istria. We spent five days frolicking around the alluring cities and towns and made the most of the gorgeous natural landscape. It is the place I always think back to when dreaming of sunny Croatia. The Istrian Penisula is absolutely bewitching and with a unique charm and culture unlike anywhere else in Croatia, it feels like its own separate little country. An area steeped in history, Istria has at various times been under the influence of the Austro-Hungarian empire, neighbouring Italy and the Balkans and this is incredibly apparent within the architecture, the food and the language. We spent our time wandering the adorable streets of the fishing villages and hilltop towns, swimming in the clear sea at every given opportunity and making sure to eat as much truffle pasta as humanly possible. When people ask where they should travel to in Croatia, I will always say beautiful Istria. Here are some of our top spots for the area.
OPATIJA
We hopped out of the airport into our rental car and made our first stop in the city of Opatija. Once part of the wealthy Austro-Hungarian empire, Opatija was a popular playground for European royalty in the 19th century. Opatija has remained a holiday destination since, and its old-world glamour still remains today. Viennese-style villas overlook the Adriatic Sea and art nouveau coffee shops line the streets. We walked along the famous riviera, soaking up the sunshine, imagining all those who had done so before us. The feeling of nostalgia is very much apparent throughout Opatija, such as is expected in a city filled with rich history. We took our first swim of the trip in the clear waters, right next to the famous ‘Maiden with a seagull’ statue, before enjoying an Aperol spritz, accompanied by the child-like giddiness that comes with the first day of a holiday.
ROVINJ
We had decided to base ourselves in Rovinj simply due to the fact I saw a photograph of the adorable harbour and knew we would love it. Along the pretty fishing harbour sits the pastel coloured buildings all overlooked by the St Euphemia church perched at the top of the hill. Once ruled by the Venetians, Rovinj unsurprisingly mimics Venice, with numerous squares, gorgeous cobbled streets and the Venetian-style townhouses looking out over the Adriatic. We spent our time exploring the many boutiques and art shops, stopping too often at laid-back bars and coffeehouses and reveled in the art that is relaxing by the sea. The harbour was our favourite spot, where we would idle the time away, watching fishing and tour boats alike bob up and down in the water. Evenings were spent choosing truffle pasta off every restaurant menu without fail and dancing in the street. The annual wine festival was on at the time and we made the most of the live music! We also strolled along Zlatni Rt Forest Park that lies just south of the old town. Filled with cypress and pine trees, we walked along the woodland paths down into the many secluded coves, where we spent time swimming and watching the sun set. I would return to Rovinj in a heartbeat!
MOTOVUN
An hours drive from Rovinj and perched at the top of a hill sits medieval Motovun, a walled town surrounded by beautiful Istrian countryside. Motovun is known best for the truffles that fill the forests nearby and for their excellent wine. The old town reflects this, with its many souvenir shops offering tasting sessions and samples. We walked along the walls of the town taking in the beautiful views of the olive groves and vineyards in the surrounding area and also paid a visit to what we now call the worlds most scenic fruit and vegetable stand!
GROZNJAN
Equally famous for its wine and truffles is the quiet hilltop town of Groznjan. Overlooking the Mirna river valley, Groznjan was once a strategic fortress for the 14th-century Venetians and the architecture strongly reflects this. By the 1960’s, the crumbling Groznjan was seemingly forgotten. That was until it was revived by a small group of artists who saw its potential. Now an annual music summer school brings the town to life and art galleries have filled the buildings. The combination of the old medieval buildings and artistic flair makes Groznjan ooze with charm. We loved wandering around the cobbled streets and took a walk along the olive orchards, stopping to pick figs from the trees and admire the rolling hills.
PULA
The biggest and most bustling city in Istria is Pula. With the Adriatic sea on its doorstep, Pula’s natural surroundings are gorgeous, but the gem of the city is most definitely the impressively preserved Roman amphitheater. The huge amphitheater as well as many other roman ruins found throughout Pula adds an interesting and historical charm to the commercial city that encourages many to coin Pula the ‘Little Rome’. We loved wandering around the streets discovering all the ruins and soaking up the laid-back atmosphere.
CAPE KAMENJAK
Situated near the city of Pula at Istria’s southernmost tip is Cape Kamenjak national park. With translucent waters, hundreds of species of wild flowers, herbs and plants, perfect swimming spots and gorgeous beaches, Cape Kamenjak is an outdoor paradise. When we arrived we first stopped off at the Safari Bar, right next to the quirkiest lookout tower. Described as part tiki-hut, part playground, this funky bar is filled with benches, swings, ping-pong tables and huts hidden within the trees and bushes. If you can find the bar, they serve fresh juices, beer and cheese toasties! It’s everything my dream beer garden could be. We spent the rest of the day hopping from beach to beach. We clambered down rocks, jumped into the most gorgeous clear waters, explored hidden caves and soaked up all the sunshine we could. We ended the day with a final dip as we watched the sun go down. We drove back to our apartment with the car windows down, all salty-haired and sun-kissed, grinning from ear to ear.
Istria is truly a beautiful part of Croatia and one that should not be missed off anyone’s itinerary when traveling to this gorgeous country!